A new three-dimensional numerical wave tank is developed for the calculation of wave
propagation and wave hydrodynamics by solving the incompressible Navier–Stokes …

Coastal communities in tropical environments are at increasing risk from both environmental
degradation and climate change and require urgent local adaptation action. Evidences …

This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the previous book editions
published in 1996 and 2013 under the same title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern …

A 2 week field experiment was conducted to measure surface wave dissipation on a barrier
reef at Kaneohe Bay, Oahu, Hawaii. Wave heights and velocities were measured at several …

In this study, we use a time domain numerical model based on the fully nonlinear extended
Boussinesq equations [Wei et al., 1995] to investigate surface wave transformation and …

A method is proposed for smoothly matching an approximate, shallow-water dispersion
relation to an analytically obtained relation for intermediate and deep water. The method …

A mild slope wave equation is derived which governs the propagation of linear surface
waves in the presence of large ambient currents. The equation is shown to differ from two …

Modelling large-scale wave fields and their interaction with coastal and offshore structures
has become much more feasible over the last two decades with increases in computer …

Application of the parabolic equation method to wave propagation problems implies that the
propagation direction of all major components of the wave field must be confined to some …

The effect of manmade activities is primarily local but can extend far away from the location
of intervention. This underlines the importance of establishing coastal zone management …