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[HTML][HTML] Rip current types, circulation and hazard
Rip currents are narrow and concentrated seaward-directed flows that extend from close to
the shoreline, through the surf zone, and varying distances beyond. Rip currents are …
the shoreline, through the surf zone, and varying distances beyond. Rip currents are …
Geologically controlled sandy beaches: Their geomorphology, morphodynamics and classification
Beaches that are geologically controlled by rock and coral formations are the rule, not the
exception. This paper reviews the current understanding of geologically controlled beaches …
exception. This paper reviews the current understanding of geologically controlled beaches …
A model integrating longshore and cross‐shore processes for predicting long‐term shoreline response to climate change
We present a shoreline change model for coastal hazard assessment and management
planning. The model, CoSMoS‐COAST (Coastal One‐line Assimilated Simulation Tool), is a …
planning. The model, CoSMoS‐COAST (Coastal One‐line Assimilated Simulation Tool), is a …
Extreme erosion on high-energy embayed beaches: influence of megarips and storm grou**
Megarips have long been recognised as an important, yet poorly documented, mechanism
of beach erosion on high-energy embayed beaches. The persistence and cumulative effect …
of beach erosion on high-energy embayed beaches. The persistence and cumulative effect …
Observations of shoreline–sandbar coupling on an embayed beach
We analyse a seven-year dataset (1999–2005) of shoreline and sandbar variations derived
from video observations at the embayed Tairua Beach, New Zealand, to explore sandbar …
from video observations at the embayed Tairua Beach, New Zealand, to explore sandbar …
The morphodynamics of rip channels on embayed beaches
We use a nonlinear morphodynamic model to examine the formation and nonlinear
evolution of surfzone rip channels on embayed beaches. Starting from a range of embayed …
evolution of surfzone rip channels on embayed beaches. Starting from a range of embayed …
Morphodynamics of two Mediterranean microtidal beaches presenting permanent megacusps under the influence of waves and strong offshore winds
This study focuses on four years of survey of two low-microtidal emerged beaches (average
tidal range≈ 0.3 m), presenting permanent megacusps on the French Mediterranean coast …
tidal range≈ 0.3 m), presenting permanent megacusps on the French Mediterranean coast …
Morphometric classification of swell-dominated embayed beaches
Globally, embayed beaches are common to hilly and mountainous coastlines. They are
typically characterised by two headlands that are a primary control on incident wave …
typically characterised by two headlands that are a primary control on incident wave …
On the use of variance images for runup and shoreline detection
The use of variance images for runup and shoreline detection is analyzed in this work. A
methodology based on the variance images is first motivated with synthetic time stacks and …
methodology based on the variance images is first motivated with synthetic time stacks and …
Lagrangian observations of circulation on an embayed beach with headland rip currents
This study describes the first comprehensive measurements of nearshore current patterns
across the entire extent of an embayed beach bounded by headland rip currents. A field …
across the entire extent of an embayed beach bounded by headland rip currents. A field …