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[HTML][HTML] Rip current types, circulation and hazard
Rip currents are narrow and concentrated seaward-directed flows that extend from close to
the shoreline, through the surf zone, and varying distances beyond. Rip currents are …
the shoreline, through the surf zone, and varying distances beyond. Rip currents are …
The lower shoreface: Morphodynamics and sediment connectivity with the upper shoreface and beach
The lower shoreface provides the connection between the continental shelf and the
shoreline via its onshore transition called the upper shoreface. Lower shorefaces are …
shoreline via its onshore transition called the upper shoreface. Lower shorefaces are …
Morphodynamics of wave-dominated beaches
Wave-dominated sandy beaches are highly valued by societies and are amongst the world's
most energetic and dynamic environments. On wave-dominated beaches with unlimited …
most energetic and dynamic environments. On wave-dominated beaches with unlimited …
Geologically controlled sandy beaches: Their geomorphology, morphodynamics and classification
Beaches that are geologically controlled by rock and coral formations are the rule, not the
exception. This paper reviews the current understanding of geologically controlled beaches …
exception. This paper reviews the current understanding of geologically controlled beaches …
[HTML][HTML] A rules-based shoreface translation and sediment budgeting tool for estimating coastal change: ShoreTrans
Predicting change to shorelines globally presents an increasing challenge as sea level rise
(SLR) accelerates. Many shoreline prediction models use the simplistic 'Bruun rule'for …
(SLR) accelerates. Many shoreline prediction models use the simplistic 'Bruun rule'for …
Morphometric classification of swell-dominated embayed beaches
Globally, embayed beaches are common to hilly and mountainous coastlines. They are
typically characterised by two headlands that are a primary control on incident wave …
typically characterised by two headlands that are a primary control on incident wave …
Nearshore sediment pathways and potential sediment budgets in embayed settings over a multi-annual timescale
Embayed beaches constitute a large proportion of the world's rocky coastlines, but there is a
paucity of studies focusing on the longshore sediment exchange between embayed …
paucity of studies focusing on the longshore sediment exchange between embayed …
Wave and tidal controls on embayment circulation and headland bypassing for an exposed, macrotidal site
Headland bypassing is the transport of sediment around rocky headlands by wave and tidal
action, associated with high-energy conditions and embayment circulation (eg, mega-rips) …
action, associated with high-energy conditions and embayment circulation (eg, mega-rips) …
Wave shadow zones as a primary control of storm erosion and recovery on embayed beaches
Waves interact with headlands on embayed beaches through refraction, diffraction and
attenuation and can create alongshore gradients in wave energy and beach response. This …
attenuation and can create alongshore gradients in wave energy and beach response. This …
Modelling of embayed beach equilibrium planform and rotation signal
Embayed beaches are highly attractive sandy beaches bounded laterally by rigid
boundaries, which deeply affect equilibrium beach planform and shoreline dynamics. We …
boundaries, which deeply affect equilibrium beach planform and shoreline dynamics. We …