There is much speculation that the largest and steepest waves may need to be modelled
with different physics to the majority of the waves on the open ocean. This review examines …

The formation of abnormal (extreme) waves in coastal areas can be triggered by wave–
seabed interaction, in particular by steep bottom changes. As an incident equilibrium sea …

The formation mechanism of extreme waves in the coastal areas is still an open
contemporary problem in fluid mechanics and ocean engineering. Previous studies have …

We present experimental results of irregular long-crested waves propagating over a
submerged trapezoidal bar with the presence of a background current in a wave flume. We …

The criteria for zoning the surface fault rupture hazard (SFRH) along thrust faults are defined
by analysing the characteristics of the areas of coseismic surface faulting in thrust …

Wave transformation is an intrinsic dynamic process in coastal areas. An essential part of
this process is the variation of water depth, which plays a dominant role in the propagation …

This paper concerns the statistical distribution of the crest heights associated with surface
waves in intermediate water depths. The results of a new laboratory study are presented in …

We discuss the dynamics of unidirectional random wave fields that propagate against an
opposing current through laboratory experiments and direct numerical simulations of the …

In this paper, we analyze the generation mechanism of rogue waves for the discrete
nonlinear Schrödinger (DNLS) equation from the viewpoint of structural discontinuities. First …

The study reviews, based on the state-of-the-art findings, some uncertainties associated with
wave data and models currently used in design and operation procedures of ship and …