Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of
wind-generated “short waves”(typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common …

Surface gravity waves generated by winds are ubiquitous on our oceans and play a
primordial role in the dynamics of the ocean–land–atmosphere interfaces. In particular, wind …

Narrabeen-Collaroy Beach, located on the Northern Beaches of Sydney along the Pacific
coast of southeast Australia, is one of the longest continuously monitored beaches in the …

Wave-dominated sandy beaches are highly valued by societies and are amongst the world's
most energetic and dynamic environments. On wave-dominated beaches with unlimited …

This paper details the collection, geo-referencing, and data processing algorithms for a fully-
automated, permanently deployed terrestrial lidar system for coastal monitoring. The lidar is …

This paper describes a novel image processing technique that detects wave breaking and
tracks waves in the surf zone using machine learning procedures. Using time-space images …

Applications of (video-based) depth inversion in the near-shore coastal environment are
growing in numbers. Video-based capabilities in nearshore monitoring are improving and …

The shape of depth-limited breaking-wave overturns is important for turbulence injection,
bubble entrainment and sediment suspension. Overturning wave shape depends on a …

The spatial and temporal variation of energy dissipation rates in breaking waves controls the
mean circulation of the surf zone. As this circulation plays an important role in the …

The characterization of high-velocity air–water flows is crucial for the design of hydraulic
structures including stepped spillways. Recent experimental advances have shown that …