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Infragravity waves: From driving mechanisms to impacts
Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of
wind-generated “short waves”(typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common …
wind-generated “short waves”(typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common …
The lower shoreface: Morphodynamics and sediment connectivity with the upper shoreface and beach
The lower shoreface provides the connection between the continental shelf and the
shoreline via its onshore transition called the upper shoreface. Lower shorefaces are …
shoreline via its onshore transition called the upper shoreface. Lower shorefaces are …
Morphodynamics of wave-dominated beaches
Wave-dominated sandy beaches are highly valued by societies and are amongst the world's
most energetic and dynamic environments. On wave-dominated beaches with unlimited …
most energetic and dynamic environments. On wave-dominated beaches with unlimited …
Sediment supply from shoreface to dunes: linking sediment transport measurements and long-term morphological evolution
A significant problem in current coastal research is the understanding of linkages between
morphological phenomena occurring on different temporal and spatial scales …
morphological phenomena occurring on different temporal and spatial scales …
Modeling cross‐shore sandbar behavior on the timescale of weeks
We compare predictions of a coupled, wave‐averaged, cross‐shore waves‐currents‐
bathymetric evolution model to observations of onshore and offshore nearshore sandbar …
bathymetric evolution model to observations of onshore and offshore nearshore sandbar …
On the parameterization of the free-stream non-linear wave orbital motion in nearshore morphodynamic models
Nearshore morphodynamic models are computationally demanding, especially when the
time scale of interest is weeks or longer. Hence, they often rely on a simple parameterization …
time scale of interest is weeks or longer. Hence, they often rely on a simple parameterization …
[HTML][HTML] Dune erosion during storm surges: A review of the observations, physics and modelling of the collision regime
Dune erosion during storm surges can lead to excessive damage to the dune system with
devastating floods as a potential consequence. A risk assessment of areas protected by …
devastating floods as a potential consequence. A risk assessment of areas protected by …
Calibration and verification of a parametric wave model on barred beaches
Since its introduction in 1978, the Battjes and Janssen model has proven to be a popular
framework for estimating the cross-shore root-mean-square wave height Hrms …
framework for estimating the cross-shore root-mean-square wave height Hrms …
Large-scale experiments on beach profile evolution and surf and swash zone sediment transport induced by long waves, wave groups and random waves
New large-scale laboratory data are presented on the influence of long waves, bichromatic
wave groups and random waves on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones …
wave groups and random waves on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones …
Morphodynamics of the Wadden Sea and its barrier island system
The Wadden Sea and its associated barrier island system exhibit highly dynamic behaviour.
Of major concern is the movement of water and air and the transport, erosion and deposition …
Of major concern is the movement of water and air and the transport, erosion and deposition …