Infragravity waves: From driving mechanisms to impacts

X Bertin, A de Bakker, AP Van Dongeren, G Coco… - Earth-Science …, 2018 - Elsevier
Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of
wind-generated “short waves”(typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common …

The lower shoreface: Morphodynamics and sediment connectivity with the upper shoreface and beach

EJ Anthony, T Aagaard - Earth-Science Reviews, 2020 - Elsevier
The lower shoreface provides the connection between the continental shelf and the
shoreline via its onshore transition called the upper shoreface. Lower shorefaces are …

Morphodynamics of wave-dominated beaches

B Castelle, G Masselink - Cambridge Prisms: Coastal Futures, 2023 - cambridge.org
Wave-dominated sandy beaches are highly valued by societies and are amongst the world's
most energetic and dynamic environments. On wave-dominated beaches with unlimited …

Sediment supply from shoreface to dunes: linking sediment transport measurements and long-term morphological evolution

T Aagaard, R Davidson-Arnott, B Greenwood… - Geomorphology, 2004 - Elsevier
A significant problem in current coastal research is the understanding of linkages between
morphological phenomena occurring on different temporal and spatial scales …

Modeling cross‐shore sandbar behavior on the timescale of weeks

BG Ruessink, Y Kuriyama, A Reniers… - Journal of …, 2007 - Wiley Online Library
We compare predictions of a coupled, wave‐averaged, cross‐shore waves‐currents‐
bathymetric evolution model to observations of onshore and offshore nearshore sandbar …

On the parameterization of the free-stream non-linear wave orbital motion in nearshore morphodynamic models

BG Ruessink, G Ramaekers, LC Van Rijn - Coastal engineering, 2012 - Elsevier
Nearshore morphodynamic models are computationally demanding, especially when the
time scale of interest is weeks or longer. Hence, they often rely on a simple parameterization …

[HTML][HTML] Dune erosion during storm surges: A review of the observations, physics and modelling of the collision regime

PPJ van Wiechen, S De Vries, A Reniers… - Coastal …, 2023 - Elsevier
Dune erosion during storm surges can lead to excessive damage to the dune system with
devastating floods as a potential consequence. A risk assessment of areas protected by …

Calibration and verification of a parametric wave model on barred beaches

BG Ruessink, DJR Walstra, HN Southgate - Coastal engineering, 2003 - Elsevier
Since its introduction in 1978, the Battjes and Janssen model has proven to be a popular
framework for estimating the cross-shore root-mean-square wave height Hrms …

Large-scale experiments on beach profile evolution and surf and swash zone sediment transport induced by long waves, wave groups and random waves

TE Baldock, JA Alsina, I Cáceres, D Vicinanza… - Coastal …, 2011 - Elsevier
New large-scale laboratory data are presented on the influence of long waves, bichromatic
wave groups and random waves on sediment transport in the surf and swash zones …

Morphodynamics of the Wadden Sea and its barrier island system

ZB Wang, P Hoekstra, H Burchard… - Ocean & coastal …, 2012 - Elsevier
The Wadden Sea and its associated barrier island system exhibit highly dynamic behaviour.
Of major concern is the movement of water and air and the transport, erosion and deposition …