Wave breaking is the main mechanism that dissipates energy input into ocean waves by
wind and transferred across the spectrum by nonlinearity. It determines the properties of a …

The development of accurate, real-time predictive models for weakly nonlinear
multidirectional wave fields would enable a significant reduction in the cost of wave energy …

Being encouraged by the recent study by Yang et al.[“On collinear steady-state gravity
waves with an infinite number of exact resonances,” Phys. Fluids 31, 122109 (2019)] on two …

In this manuscript we investigate the Benjamin–Feir (or modulation) instability for the spatial
evolution of water waves from the perspective of the discrete, spatial Zakharov equation …

This paper sets out to explore the modulational (or Benjamin-Feir) instability of a
monochromatic wave propagating in the presence of dam** such as that induced by sea …

We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface
waves based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre …

This paper examines class II Bragg resonance in the interaction between surface gravity
waves and bottom ripples and derives the corresponding steady-state wave system based …

The Hamiltonian formulation of the water wave problem due to Zakharov and the reduced
Zakharov equation derived therefrom have great utility in understanding and modelling …

A method for the reconstruction of nonlinear ocean surfaces is presented and applied to
regular waves. From random samples of surface elevation, the method reconstructs the …

The thesis is aimed at develo** phase-resolved prediction models for ocean surface
waves. The models run in real-time on a standard personal computer. Such models can be …