Wave-induced mean currents and setup over barred and steep sandy beaches

K Martins, X Bertin, B Mengual, M Pezerat, L Lavaud… - Ocean Modelling, 2022 - Elsevier
Wind-generated surface waves breaking in the nearshore cause an increase in mean water
levels, the wave setup, which can represent a significant fraction of storm surges develo** …

Estimating runup with limited bathymetry

AMZ Lange, JW Fiedler, JM Becker, MA Merrifield… - Coastal …, 2022 - Elsevier
Wave runup estimates are used in erosion and overtop** models, and in coastal structure
design. However, runup depends on often incompletely known surf and swash bathymetry …

[HTML][HTML] Measurements of nearshore ocean-surface kinematics through coherent arrays of free-drifting buoys

E Rainville, J Thomson, M Moulton… - Earth System Science …, 2023 - essd.copernicus.org
Surface gravity wave breaking occurs along coastlines in complex spatial and temporal
patterns that significantly impact erosion, scalar transport, and flooding. Numerical models …

The offshore boundary condition in surf zone modeling

JW Fiedler, PB Smit, KL Brodie, J McNinch, RT Guza - Coastal Engineering, 2019 - Elsevier
Numerical models predicting surfzone waves and shoreline runup in field situations are
often initialized with shoreward propagating (sea-swell, and infragravity) waves at an …

Hydrodynamic modeling of a reef-fringed pocket beach using a phase-resolved non-hydrostatic model

J Risandi, DP Rijnsdorp, JE Hansen… - Journal of Marine Science …, 2020 - mdpi.com
The non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH was used to investigate the hydrodynamic
processes at a reef fringed pocket beach in southwestern Australia (Gnarabup Beach) …

Low-cost pressure gauges for measuring water waves

NA Temple, BM Webb, EL Sparks… - Journal of Coastal …, 2020 - meridian.allenpress.com
ABSTRACT Temple, NA; Webb, BM; Sparks, EL, and Linhoss, AC, 2020. Low-cost pressure
gauges for measuring water waves. Journal of Coastal Research, 36 (3), 661–667. Coconut …

Skill assessment of a total water level and coastal change forecast during the landfall of a hurricane

JJ Birchler, ML Palmsten, KS Doran, S Karwandyar… - Coastal …, 2024 - Elsevier
Abstract The Total Water Level and Coastal Change Forecast (TWL&CC Forecast) provides
coastal communities with 6-day notice of potential elevated water levels and coastal change …

Nearshore flow dynamics over shore‐oblique bathymetric features during storm wave conditions

L Szczyrba, RP Mulligan, P Pufahl… - Journal of …, 2024 - Wiley Online Library
Shore‐oblique bathymetric features occur around the world and have been statistically
correlated with enhanced shoreline retreat on sandy beaches. However, the physical …

Modeled three‐dimensional currents and eddies on an alongshore‐variable barred beach

CM Baker, M Moulton, B Raubenheimer… - Journal of …, 2021 - Wiley Online Library
Circulation in the nearshore region, which is critical for material transport along the coast
and between the surf zone and the inner shelf, includes strong vortical motions. The …

Simulating the wave-induced response of a submerged wave-energy converter using a non-hydrostatic wave-flow model

DP Rijnsdorp, JE Hansen, RJ Lowe - Coastal Engineering, 2018 - Elsevier
With the increasing interest in wave energy, and when moving towards commercial-scale
wave-energy projects, a detailed understanding of the interactions between single and …