Infragravity waves: From driving mechanisms to impacts
Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of
wind-generated “short waves”(typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common …
wind-generated “short waves”(typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common …
Hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the swash zone: a review and perspectives
The dominant hydrodynamic forcing and resulting sediment transport mechanisms in the
swash zone are reviewed, combined with a discussion of future measurement and …
swash zone are reviewed, combined with a discussion of future measurement and …
Empirical parameterization of setup, swash, and runup
Using shoreline water-level time series collected during 10 dynamically diverse field
experiments, an empirical parameterization for extreme runup, defined by the 2 …
experiments, an empirical parameterization for extreme runup, defined by the 2 …
Satellite-derived shoreline detection at a high-energy meso-macrotidal beach
Publicly available satellite imagery can now provide multi-decadal time series of shoreline
data from local to global scale, enabling analysis of sandy beach shoreline variability across …
data from local to global scale, enabling analysis of sandy beach shoreline variability across …
The dynamics of infragravity wave transformation over a fringing reef
A 3 week field study was conducted to investigate the dynamics of low‐frequency
(infragravity) wave motions over a fringing reef at Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia. Short …
(infragravity) wave motions over a fringing reef at Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia. Short …
The contribution of wind-generated waves to coastal sea-level changes
Surface gravity waves generated by winds are ubiquitous on our oceans and play a
primordial role in the dynamics of the ocean–land–atmosphere interfaces. In particular, wind …
primordial role in the dynamics of the ocean–land–atmosphere interfaces. In particular, wind …
A video-based technique for map** intertidal beach bathymetry
Measuring the location of the shoreline and monitoring foreshore changes through time are
core tasks carried out by coastal engineers for a wide range of research, monitoring and …
core tasks carried out by coastal engineers for a wide range of research, monitoring and …
Numerical modeling of low-frequency wave dynamics over a fringing coral reef
Low-frequency (infragravity) wave dynamics on a fringing coral reef were investigated using
the numerical model XBeach (Roelvink et al., 2009). First, the skill of the model was …
the numerical model XBeach (Roelvink et al., 2009). First, the skill of the model was …
On the prediction of runup, setup and swash on beaches
Wave runup is one of the most critical parameters contributing to coastline flooding and
shoreline change. Many formulas have been developed to empirically predict wave runup …
shoreline change. Many formulas have been developed to empirically predict wave runup …
The relative contribution of waves, tides, and nontidal residuals to extreme total water levels on US West Coast sandy beaches
To better understand how individual processes combine to cause flooding and erosion
events, we investigate the relative contribution of tides, waves, and nontidal residuals to …
events, we investigate the relative contribution of tides, waves, and nontidal residuals to …