Boussinesq models and their application to coastal processes across a wide range of scales

JT Kirby - Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean …, 2016 - ascelibrary.org
In this paper, the development of a class of depth-integrated, phase-resolving models for
surface wave propagation, known as Boussinesq-type models (BTMs), is reviewed. This …

Recent advances in Serre–Green Naghdi modelling for wave transformation, breaking and runup processes

P Bonneton, E Barthélemy, F Chazel… - European Journal of …, 2011 - Elsevier
To describe the strongly nonlinear dynamics of waves propagating in the final stages of
shoaling and in the surf and swash zones, fully nonlinear models are required. The ability of …

Depth-induced wave breaking in a non-hydrostatic, near-shore wave model

P Smit, M Zijlema, G Stelling - Coastal Engineering, 2013 - Elsevier
The energy dissipation in the surf-zone due to wave breaking is inherently accounted for in
shock-capturing non-hydrostatic wave models, but this requires high vertical resolutions. To …

Numerical investigation of solitary wave breaking over a slope based on multi-phase smoothed particle hydrodynamics

F He, Y Zhang, H Jiang, C Huang - Physics of Fluids, 2023 - pubs.aip.org
This study presents a numerical investigation of the solitary wave breaking over a slope by
using the multi-phase smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) method. Four different …

A splitting approach for the fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green–Naghdi model

P Bonneton, F Chazel, D Lannes, F Marche… - Journal of Computational …, 2011 - Elsevier
The fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green–Naghdi model for shallow water waves of
large amplitude is studied. The original model is first recast under a new formulation more …

A new approach to handle wave breaking in fully non-linear Boussinesq models

M Tissier, P Bonneton, F Marche, F Chazel… - Coastal Engineering, 2012 - Elsevier
In this paper, a new method to handle wave breaking in fully non-linear Boussinesq-type
models is presented. The strategy developed to treat wave breaking is based on a …

A new class of fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green–Naghdi models for efficient 2D simulations

D Lannes, F Marche - Journal of Computational Physics, 2015 - Elsevier
We introduce a new class of two-dimensional fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Green–
Naghdi equations over varying topography. These new Green–Naghdi systems share the …

Parameterization of nearshore wave front slope

C Zhang, Q Zhang, J Zheng, Z Demirbilek - Coastal Engineering, 2017 - Elsevier
This study presents an empirical parameterization of wave front slope angle used in the
characterization of shoaling and breaking waves in nearshore environment. A large amount …

Non-hydrostatic modelling of infragravity waves under laboratory conditions

DP Rijnsdorp, PB Smit, M Zijlema - Coastal Engineering, 2014 - Elsevier
The non-hydrostatic wave model SWASH is compared to flume observations of infragravity
waves propagating over a plane slope and barred beach. The experiments cover a range of …