Infragravity waves: From driving mechanisms to impacts
Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of
wind-generated “short waves”(typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common …
wind-generated “short waves”(typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common …
Double bar beach dynamics on the high-energy meso-macrotidal French Aquitanian Coast: A review
The French Aquitanian Coast is an approximately 250 km long straight low coast exposed to
high energy conditions in a meso-macrotidal setting. Offshore wave conditions are …
high energy conditions in a meso-macrotidal setting. Offshore wave conditions are …
Calibration and verification of a parametric wave model on barred beaches
Since its introduction in 1978, the Battjes and Janssen model has proven to be a popular
framework for estimating the cross-shore root-mean-square wave height Hrms …
framework for estimating the cross-shore root-mean-square wave height Hrms …
Parameterization of nearshore wave breaker index
The performances of phase-averaged parametric nearshore wave transformation models
depend significantly on a reliable estimate of the wave breaker index γ (the breaker height …
depend significantly on a reliable estimate of the wave breaker index γ (the breaker height …
Pocket beach hydrodynamics: The example of four macrotidal beaches, Brittany, France
During several field experiments, measurements of waves and currents as well as
topographic surveys were conducted on four morphologically-contrasted macrotidal …
topographic surveys were conducted on four morphologically-contrasted macrotidal …
Spatial variability of wave conditions on the French Atlantic coast using in-situ data
This study aims to provide a statistical description of wave conditions on the French Atlantic
coast. The large scale spatial variability of sea states at the French Atlantic coast is assessed …
coast. The large scale spatial variability of sea states at the French Atlantic coast is assessed …
Wave transformation on a sub-horizontal shore platform, Tatapouri, North Island, New Zealand
Waves are generally considered to be an important control on shore platform evolution but
there have been very few detailed studies of wave dynamics on rocky coasts. This study …
there have been very few detailed studies of wave dynamics on rocky coasts. This study …
Infragravity‐wave modulation of short‐wave celerity in the surf zone
The cross‐shore evolution of individual wave celerity is investigated using two high‐
resolution laboratory experiments on bichromatic waves. Individual waves are tracked …
resolution laboratory experiments on bichromatic waves. Individual waves are tracked …
Quantification of the attenuation of storm surge components by a coastal wetland of the US Mid Atlantic
Coastal wetlands are receiving increased consideration as natural defenses for coastal
communities from storm surge. However, there are gaps in storm surge measurements …
communities from storm surge. However, there are gaps in storm surge measurements …
Simulating storm waves in the nearshore area using spectral model: Current issues and a pragmatic solution
Short waves are of key importance for nearshore dynamics, particularly under storms, where
they contribute to extreme water levels and drive large morphological changes. Therefore, it …
they contribute to extreme water levels and drive large morphological changes. Therefore, it …