Infragravity waves: From driving mechanisms to impacts

X Bertin, A de Bakker, AP Van Dongeren, G Coco… - Earth-Science …, 2018 - Elsevier
Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of
wind-generated “short waves”(typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common …

The predictability of cross-shore bed evolution of sandy beaches at the time scale of storms and seasons using process-based profile models

LC van Rijn, DJR Walstra, B Grasmeijer… - Coastal …, 2003 - Elsevier
Deterministic and probabilistic Profile models have been compared with hydrodynamic and
morphodynamic data of laboratory and field experiments on the time scale of storms and …

[書籍][B] Coastal engineering: processes, theory and design practice

D Reeve, MI Vousdoukas, LPM Almeida… - Earth Surface Processes …, 2012 - Wiley Online Library
This study analyses beach morphological change during six consecutive storms acting on
the meso‐tidal Faro Beach (south Portugal) between 15 December 2009 and 7 January …

Rip spacing and persistence on an embayed beach

RA Holman, G Symonds, EB Thornton… - Journal of …, 2006 - Wiley Online Library
Four years of daily time exposure images from an embayed beach were examined to study
the spacing, persistence, and location preferences of rips in a natural rip channel system. A …

Process-based modeling of cross-shore sandbar behavior

B Dubarbier, B Castelle, V Marieu, G Ruessink - Coastal Engineering, 2015 - Elsevier
A coupled wave–current–sediment transport beach profile model is used to simulate cross-
shore sandbar evolution on the time scale from days to months comprising both rapid …

Formation and development of a breaker bar under regular waves. Part 1: Model description and hydrodynamics

NG Jacobsen, J Fredsoe, JH Jensen - Coastal Engineering, 2014 - Elsevier
In this work a detailed hydrodynamic model is presented, which is used for the study of cross-
shore sediment transport and morphodynamics in two dimensions. The model is described …

Observations of shoreline–sandbar coupling on an embayed beach

WI Van de Lageweg, KR Bryan, G Coco, BG Ruessink - Marine Geology, 2013 - Elsevier
We analyse a seven-year dataset (1999–2005) of shoreline and sandbar variations derived
from video observations at the embayed Tairua Beach, New Zealand, to explore sandbar …