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Infragravity waves: From driving mechanisms to impacts
Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of
wind-generated “short waves”(typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common …
wind-generated “short waves”(typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common …
The predictability of cross-shore bed evolution of sandy beaches at the time scale of storms and seasons using process-based profile models
Deterministic and probabilistic Profile models have been compared with hydrodynamic and
morphodynamic data of laboratory and field experiments on the time scale of storms and …
morphodynamic data of laboratory and field experiments on the time scale of storms and …
[書籍][B] Coastal engineering: processes, theory and design practice
This study analyses beach morphological change during six consecutive storms acting on
the meso‐tidal Faro Beach (south Portugal) between 15 December 2009 and 7 January …
the meso‐tidal Faro Beach (south Portugal) between 15 December 2009 and 7 January …
Rip spacing and persistence on an embayed beach
RA Holman, G Symonds, EB Thornton… - Journal of …, 2006 - Wiley Online Library
Four years of daily time exposure images from an embayed beach were examined to study
the spacing, persistence, and location preferences of rips in a natural rip channel system. A …
the spacing, persistence, and location preferences of rips in a natural rip channel system. A …
Process-based modeling of cross-shore sandbar behavior
A coupled wave–current–sediment transport beach profile model is used to simulate cross-
shore sandbar evolution on the time scale from days to months comprising both rapid …
shore sandbar evolution on the time scale from days to months comprising both rapid …
Formation and development of a breaker bar under regular waves. Part 1: Model description and hydrodynamics
In this work a detailed hydrodynamic model is presented, which is used for the study of cross-
shore sediment transport and morphodynamics in two dimensions. The model is described …
shore sediment transport and morphodynamics in two dimensions. The model is described …
Observations of shoreline–sandbar coupling on an embayed beach
We analyse a seven-year dataset (1999–2005) of shoreline and sandbar variations derived
from video observations at the embayed Tairua Beach, New Zealand, to explore sandbar …
from video observations at the embayed Tairua Beach, New Zealand, to explore sandbar …