Exchange of material across the nearshore region, extending from the shoreline to a few
kilometers offshore, determines the concentrations of pathogens and nutrients near the …

To investigate the dynamics of flows near nonuniform bathymetry, single channels (on
average 30 m wide and 1.5 m deep) were dredged across the surf zone at five different …

Rip currents, fast offshore-directed flows, are the leading cause of death and rescues on surf
beaches worldwide. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) seeks to …

Operational nearshore current forecasts based on numerical model simulations are gaining
popularity as a measure to increase the safety of swimmers. Applying remotely-sensed …

A multibeach Lagrangian data set was used to determine bathymetric controls on flow
variability within the surfzone. Seven microtidal flow regimes were examined, six containing …

Alongshore force balances, including the role of nonlinear advection, in the shoaling and
surf zones onshore of a submarine canyon are investigated using a numerical modeling …

Wave and current measurements from a cross‐shore array of nearshore sensors in Duck,
NC, are used to elucidate the balance of alongshore momentum under energetic wave …

The nearshore hydrodynamics on a steep beach involve rapid wave transformation and
generation of currents in a narrow surf zone close to the shoreline. For better understanding …

The impact of assimilation of wave‐averaged flow velocities on the bathymetric correction is
studied in tests with synthetic (model‐generated) data using tangent‐linear and adjoint …

Exchange and retention of coastal waters modulate dispersal of marine larvae, affecting
marine ecosystem dynamics. A hypothesis was put forward in the 1980s describing the …