[HTML][HTML] A physics-informed machine learning model for time-dependent wave runup prediction
Wave runup is a critical factor that affects coastal flooding, shoreline changes, and the
damage to coastal structures. Climate change is also expected to amplify the impact of wave …
damage to coastal structures. Climate change is also expected to amplify the impact of wave …
Numerical modelling of landslide-tsunami propagation in a wide range of idealised water body geometries
Large landslide-tsunamis are caused by mass movements such as landslides or rock falls
impacting into a water body. Research of these phenomena is essentially based on the two …
impacting into a water body. Research of these phenomena is essentially based on the two …
Uncertainty in runup predictions on natural beaches using XBeach nonhydrostatic
The wave time series that forces phase-resolving models is a source of model uncertainty
that can propagate into wave runup predictions when the wave phase information is …
that can propagate into wave runup predictions when the wave phase information is …
[HTML][HTML] Effects of free surface modelling and wave-breaking turbulence on depth-resolved modelling of sediment transport in the swash zone
The swash zone is an important region for the coastal morphodynamics. Often, model
studies of the swash zone use depth-averaged models. These models typically assume a …
studies of the swash zone use depth-averaged models. These models typically assume a …
Nonhydrostatic numerical modeling of fixed and mobile barred beaches: Limitations of depth-averaged wave resolving models around sandbars
Along sandy coastlines, submerged, shore-parallel sandbars play an essential role in
shoreline morphology by dissipating wave energy through depth-induced wave breaking …
shoreline morphology by dissipating wave energy through depth-induced wave breaking …
Modeling hurricane wave propagation and attenuation after overtop** sand dunes during storm surge
Sand dunes are natural features providing protection to coastal communities against waves
from extreme events such as hurricanes. In this study, the non-hydrostatic XBeach model …
from extreme events such as hurricanes. In this study, the non-hydrostatic XBeach model …
Wave‐and tide‐induced infragravity dynamics at an intermediate‐to‐dissipative microtidal beach
Numerical simulations of a range of wave climates and tide conditions made with the model
XBeach are exploited to study propagation, evolution, dissipation, and reflection patterns of …
XBeach are exploited to study propagation, evolution, dissipation, and reflection patterns of …
[HTML][HTML] Depth-resolved modelling of intra-swash morphodynamics induced by solitary waves
We present a fully coupled 2DV morphodynamic model, implemented in OpenFOAM® that is
capable of simulating swash-zone morphodynamics of sandy beaches. The hydrodynamics …
capable of simulating swash-zone morphodynamics of sandy beaches. The hydrodynamics …
An analytical spectral model for infragravity waves over topography in intermediate and shallow water under nonbreaking conditions
The theoretical model for group-forced infragravity (IG) waves in shallow water is not well
established for nonbreaking conditions. In the present study, analytical solutions of the …
established for nonbreaking conditions. In the present study, analytical solutions of the …
Sand transport processes and bed level changes induced by two alternating laboratory swash events
Sand transport processes and net transport rates are studied in a large-scale laboratory
swash zone. Bichromatic waves with a phase modulation were generated, producing two …
swash zone. Bichromatic waves with a phase modulation were generated, producing two …