Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of
wind-generated “short waves”(typically below 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common …

Exchange of material across the nearshore region, extending from the shoreline to a few
kilometers offshore, determines the concentrations of pathogens and nutrients near the …

Rip currents are the leading cause of fatal accidents and injuries on many beaches
worldwide, emphasizing the importance of automatically detecting these hazardous surface …

Wave-dominated sandy beaches are highly valued by societies and are amongst the world's
most energetic and dynamic environments. On wave-dominated beaches with unlimited …

Beaches that are geologically controlled by rock and coral formations are the rule, not the
exception. This paper reviews the current understanding of geologically controlled beaches …

Hidden and perilous rip currents are one of the primary factors leading to drownings of
beach swimmers. By identifying the coastal areas with the highest likelihood of generating …

Objective Coastal drowning is a global public health problem which requires evidence to
support safety initiatives. The growing multidisciplinary body of coastal drowning research …

Scientific research on sediment dynamics in the coastal zone and along the littoral zone has
evolved considerably over the last four decades. It benefits from a technological revolution …

Wave-driven currents have a substantial impact on local circulation patterns in and across
the surf zone, and are responsible for cross-shore and longshore exchange of mass and …

This paper presents a machine learning approach for the automatic identification of rip
currents with breaking waves. Rip currents are dangerous fast moving currents of water that …