The lower shoreface: Morphodynamics and sediment connectivity with the upper shoreface and beach

EJ Anthony, T Aagaard - Earth-Science Reviews, 2020 - Elsevier
The lower shoreface provides the connection between the continental shelf and the
shoreline via its onshore transition called the upper shoreface. Lower shorefaces are …

Observations of wave transformation over a fringing coral reef and the importance of low‐frequency waves and offshore water levels to runup, overwash, and coastal …

OM Cheriton, CD Storlazzi… - Journal of Geophysical …, 2016 - Wiley Online Library
Many low‐lying tropical islands are susceptible to sea level rise and often subjected to
overwash and flooding during large wave events. To quantify wave dynamics and wave …

A new approach to handle wave breaking in fully non-linear Boussinesq models

M Tissier, P Bonneton, F Marche, F Chazel… - Coastal Engineering, 2012 - Elsevier
In this paper, a new method to handle wave breaking in fully non-linear Boussinesq-type
models is presented. The strategy developed to treat wave breaking is based on a …

Behaviour of plastic litter in nearshore waters: First insights from wind and wave laboratory experiments

PL Forsberg, D Sous, A Stocchino, R Chemin - Marine pollution bulletin, 2020 - Elsevier
Plastic litter in nearshore waters is an environmental pollutant with increasing impact on
coastal environments. At present, knowledge on basic plastic particle dynamics and the …

[HTML][HTML] A statistical-process based approach for modelling beach profile variability

D Pender, H Karunarathna - Coastal Engineering, 2013 - Elsevier
This paper presents a methodology for modelling medium term (annual to decadal) cross
shore beach profile change and erosion. The statistical-process based approach (SPA) …

Onshore sandbar migration in the surf zone: New insights into the wave‐induced sediment transport mechanisms

A Fernández‐Mora, D Calvete… - Geophysical …, 2015 - Wiley Online Library
We present a novel process‐based morphodynamic model, which includes transport
processes due to both velocity and acceleration skewness and a new formulation for …

Laboratory observations of flow and sediment transport induced by plunging regular waves

BM Sumer, HAA Guner, NM Hansen… - Journal of …, 2013 - Wiley Online Library
Two parallel experiments involving the evolution and runup induced by plunging regular
waves near the shoreline of a slo** bed are considered:(1) a rigid‐bed experiment …

Numerical study of sandbar migration under wave-undertow interaction

J Zheng, C Zhang, Z Demirbilek, L Lin - Journal of Waterway, Port …, 2014 - ascelibrary.org
Reliable simulation of onshore-offshore sandbar migration under various wave and current
conditions has remained a challenging task over the last three decades because wave …

Influence of beach slope on morphological changes and sediment transport under irregular waves

S Dionísio António, J van der Werf, E Horstman… - Journal of marine …, 2023 - mdpi.com
This paper presents new data from large-scale wave flume experiments. It shows the beach
profile evolution and sediment transport for two different bed slopes (1: 15 and 1: 25), and …

[HTML][HTML] The influence of swash-based reflection on surf zone hydrodynamics: A wave-by-wave approach

K Martins, CE Blenkinsopp, R Almar, J Zang - Coastal Engineering, 2017 - Elsevier
A detailed understanding of the behaviour of waves in the nearshore is essential for coastal
engineers as these waves cause beach erosion, coastal flooding and damage to coastal …