Surface gravity wave breaking occurs along coastlines in complex spatial and temporal
patterns that significantly impact erosion, scalar transport, and flooding. Numerical models …

Wind-generated surface waves breaking in the nearshore cause an increase in mean water
levels, the wave setup, which can represent a significant fraction of storm surges develo** …

Waves propagating on sandy beaches are naturally affected by tides. A better
understanding of tide-modulated wave characteristics and breaking regimes in the intertidal …

The present paper reports on a field experiment performed over a shallow, roughness‐
varying barrier reef at Maupiti island, French Polynesia. The spectral wave energy balance …

Near-bottom pressure sensors are widely used to measure surface gravity waves. Pressure
spectra are usually converted to sea surface elevation spectra with a linear-theory transfer …

Along coastlines, surface gravity wave breaking occurs in complex spatial and temporal
patterns that significantly impact erosion, scalar transport, and flooding. Numerical models …

In the context of climate change, height and frequency variations in extreme sea levels
(ESLs) are studied using deterministic and probabilistic approaches. However, this type of …

Surface gravity waves, crucial for sediment transport in coastal regions, undergo wave
modulation owing to local hydrodynamic conditions. However, the cause of the spatial and …

Knowledge of wave climate is essential for efficient management of the world's coastal
areas. Senegal is a relevant case, given its high coastal vulnerability to energetic wave …