Rip currents are fast-moving flows, traveling “outward almost at right angles to the shore”,
creating a natural hazard for beachgoers, who suddenly find themselves in deep water …

In this paper, the development of a class of depth-integrated, phase-resolving models for
surface wave propagation, known as Boussinesq-type models (BTMs), is reviewed. This …

A computational procedure has been developed for simulating non-hydrostatic, free-surface,
rotational flows in one and two horizontal dimensions. Its implementation in the publicly …

We present a high-order adaptive time-step** TVD solver for the fully nonlinear
Boussinesq model of Chen (2006), extended to include moving reference level as in …

Parts I and II of this paper describe the extension and testing of two sets of Boussinesq-type
equations to include surf zone phenomena. Part I is restricted to 1D tests of shoaling …

Abstract The nonlocal Boussinesq equations (NLBEs) are investigated in this work. The
general forms of soliton solutions of the equations are firstly derived via Hirota bilinear …

The energy dissipation in the surf-zone due to wave breaking is inherently accounted for in
shock-capturing non-hydrostatic wave models, but this requires high vertical resolutions. To …

In this paper, we focus on the implementation and verification of an extended Boussinesq
model for surf zone hydrodynamics in two horizontal dimensions. The time-domain …

Rip currents are shore-normal, narrow, seaward-flowing currents that originate within surf
zone, extend seaward of the breaking region (rip head), and can obtain relatively high …

A vortex-force formalism for the interaction of surface gravity waves and currents is
implemented in a three-dimensional (3D), terrain-following, hydrostatic, oceanic circulation …