The coupled ocean-atmosphere-wave-sediment transport modeling system (COAWST)
enables simulations that integrate oceanic, atmospheric, wave and morphological …

A vortex-force formalism for the interaction of surface gravity waves and currents is
implemented in a three-dimensional (3D), terrain-following, hydrostatic, oceanic circulation …

Mean alongshore currents observed on two barred beaches are compared with predictions
based on the one‐dimensional, time‐and depth‐averaged alongshore momentum balance …

Field observations suggest that onshore sandbar migration, observed when breaking‐wave‐
driven mean flows are weak, may be related to the skewed fluid accelerations associated …

We compare predictions of a coupled, wave‐averaged, cross‐shore waves‐currents‐
bathymetric evolution model to observations of onshore and offshore nearshore sandbar …

A time domain Boussinesq model for nearshore hydrodynamics is improved to obtain the
conservation of vertical vorticity correct to second order and extended for use on an open …

Since its introduction in 1978, the Battjes and Janssen model has proven to be a popular
framework for estimating the cross-shore root-mean-square wave height Hrms …

Four months of moored current, pressure, temperature, conductivity, wave, and wind
observations on the North Carolina shelf indicate three dynamically distinct regions: the surf …

We present an optical method (optical current meter) to measure the longshore component
of nearshore surface currents by measuring the alongshore drift of persistent sea foam in the …

Abstract Infragravity waves (0.005–0.05 Hz) have recently been observed to dissipate a
large part of their energy in the short-wave (0.05–1 Hz) surf zone, however, the underlying …