Dissipation of incident forced long waves in the surf zone—Implications for the concept of “bound” wave release at short wave breaking

TE Baldock - Coastal Engineering, 2012‏ - Elsevier
A review of laboratory data sets on surf beat is presented, with a focus on the dissipation of
long wave energy in the surf zone. It is frequently assumed that incident forced long waves …

Pore-water pressure response of a silty seabed to random wave action: Importance of low-frequency waves

J Xu, J Dong, S Zhang, H Sun, G Li, J Niu, A Li… - Coastal …, 2022‏ - Elsevier
Wave-induced pore pressure in the seabed may cause seabed liquefaction and lead to
geohazards such as submarine landslides. Under natural conditions, waves generally …

Experimental study on the effect of an oyster reef on the nonlinear characteristics of irregular waves

B Jiang, H Zhang, T You, Y Sun, C Fu… - Frontiers in Marine …, 2022‏ - frontiersin.org
As a “marine ecological engineer”, the oyster reefs not only perform important ecological
functions, but also reduce the damage caused by waves to protective structures such as …

Field observations of infragravity waves and their behaviour on rock shore platforms

EP Beetham, PS Kench - Earth Surface Processes and …, 2011‏ - Wiley Online Library
Infragravity wave (IGW) transformation was quantified from field measurements on two shore
platforms on New Zealand's east coast, making this the first study to describe the presence …

Random wave overtop** of vertical seawalls on coral reefs

Y Liu, S Li, S Chen, C Hu, Z Fan, R ** - Applied Ocean Research, 2020‏ - Elsevier
Reliable estimations of overtop** rates are necessary for the design of vertical seawalls.
Although many studies have been carried out to address this, few have paid attention to …

Evolution of infragravity waves over a shoal under nonbreaking conditions

S Li, Z Liao, Y Liu, Q Zou - Journal of Geophysical Research …, 2020‏ - Wiley Online Library
The present paper aims to clarify the mechanism of infragravity wave (IGW) energy
amplification over nearshore shoals reported in recent studies. Wave transformation and …

Infragravity wave energy changes on a dissipative barred beach: A numerical study

D Mendes, JP Pinto, AA Pires-Silva, AB Fortunato - Coastal Engineering, 2018‏ - Elsevier
The influence of bars on the infragravity wave energy changes in dissipative beaches is
analysed through numerical simulations of random wave propagation. The analysis of the …

Experimental investigation of evolution of infragravity waves over a large-scale shoal

Z Liao, Y Liu, W Liu, S Li, Q Zou - Coastal Engineering, 2025‏ - Elsevier
This study investigates the amplification of infragravity waves induced by short-wave groups
over an underwater shoal, as well as their irreversible growth following the processes of …

Experimental investigation on multi-mode resonances in a rectangular harbor

M Luo, G Wang, Z Sun, S Qin, J Zheng - Physics of Fluids, 2023‏ - pubs.aip.org
Physical experiments were conducted to investigate the oscillations in a rectangular harbor
for different modes with the same resonant frequency. Two multimode resonances, that is …

Variation of wave groupiness across a fringing reef

Y Liu, S Li - Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean …, 2018‏ - ascelibrary.org
A new definition of wave groupiness factor is proposed here based on wave-height history of
wave trains. This new definition takes into account the dual roles of both zero-downcrossing …