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Dissipation of incident forced long waves in the surf zone—Implications for the concept of “bound” wave release at short wave breaking
A review of laboratory data sets on surf beat is presented, with a focus on the dissipation of
long wave energy in the surf zone. It is frequently assumed that incident forced long waves …
long wave energy in the surf zone. It is frequently assumed that incident forced long waves …
Pore-water pressure response of a silty seabed to random wave action: Importance of low-frequency waves
Wave-induced pore pressure in the seabed may cause seabed liquefaction and lead to
geohazards such as submarine landslides. Under natural conditions, waves generally …
geohazards such as submarine landslides. Under natural conditions, waves generally …
Experimental study on the effect of an oyster reef on the nonlinear characteristics of irregular waves
B Jiang, H Zhang, T You, Y Sun, C Fu… - Frontiers in Marine …, 2022 - frontiersin.org
As a “marine ecological engineer”, the oyster reefs not only perform important ecological
functions, but also reduce the damage caused by waves to protective structures such as …
functions, but also reduce the damage caused by waves to protective structures such as …
Field observations of infragravity waves and their behaviour on rock shore platforms
Infragravity wave (IGW) transformation was quantified from field measurements on two shore
platforms on New Zealand's east coast, making this the first study to describe the presence …
platforms on New Zealand's east coast, making this the first study to describe the presence …
Random wave overtop** of vertical seawalls on coral reefs
Reliable estimations of overtop** rates are necessary for the design of vertical seawalls.
Although many studies have been carried out to address this, few have paid attention to …
Although many studies have been carried out to address this, few have paid attention to …
Evolution of infragravity waves over a shoal under nonbreaking conditions
The present paper aims to clarify the mechanism of infragravity wave (IGW) energy
amplification over nearshore shoals reported in recent studies. Wave transformation and …
amplification over nearshore shoals reported in recent studies. Wave transformation and …
Infragravity wave energy changes on a dissipative barred beach: A numerical study
The influence of bars on the infragravity wave energy changes in dissipative beaches is
analysed through numerical simulations of random wave propagation. The analysis of the …
analysed through numerical simulations of random wave propagation. The analysis of the …
Experimental investigation of evolution of infragravity waves over a large-scale shoal
This study investigates the amplification of infragravity waves induced by short-wave groups
over an underwater shoal, as well as their irreversible growth following the processes of …
over an underwater shoal, as well as their irreversible growth following the processes of …
Experimental investigation on multi-mode resonances in a rectangular harbor
M Luo, G Wang, Z Sun, S Qin, J Zheng - Physics of Fluids, 2023 - pubs.aip.org
Physical experiments were conducted to investigate the oscillations in a rectangular harbor
for different modes with the same resonant frequency. Two multimode resonances, that is …
for different modes with the same resonant frequency. Two multimode resonances, that is …
Variation of wave groupiness across a fringing reef
A new definition of wave groupiness factor is proposed here based on wave-height history of
wave trains. This new definition takes into account the dual roles of both zero-downcrossing …
wave trains. This new definition takes into account the dual roles of both zero-downcrossing …