Wind-waves have an important role in Earth system dynamics through air–sea interactions
and are key drivers of coastal and offshore hydro-morphodynamics that affect communities …

Sandy beaches comprise approximately 31% of the world's ice-free coasts. Sandy
coastlines around the world are continuously adjusting in response to changing waves and …

Wind wave observations in shallow coastal waters are essential for calibrating, validating,
and improving numerical wave models to predict sediment transport, shoreline change, and …

Coasts are highly dynamic systems. Understanding how they respond to individual storms
events and to future climate change is difficult as local boundary conditions determines their …

We present the result of a collaborative priority setting exercise to identify emerging issues
and priorities in coastal geoscience and engineering (CGE). We use a ranking process to …

Surface waves are extremely important in a large variety of oceanographic applications and
thus, the study of their spatiotemporal characteristics remains crucial. This study analyzes …

Understanding the drivers of coastal change is important for establishing how a system
behaves and responds under different conditions, which is then used for informing …

Warnings issued by meteorological or oceanographic agencies are a common means of
allowing people to prepare for likely impactful events. Quantifying the relationships between …

Abstract Multi-purpose Artificial Reefs (MPARs) are structures that may provide aesthetically
acceptable coastal protection and improve recreational outcomes. Twenty years after …

The Alber equation is a phase-averaged second-moment model used to study the statistics
of a sea state, which has recently been attracting renewed attention. We extend it in two …