Rip currents are narrow and concentrated seaward-directed flows that extend from close to
the shoreline, through the surf zone, and varying distances beyond. Rip currents are …

Develo** future projections of shoreline change requires a good understanding of the
driving coastal processes. These processes result primarily from the combination of mean …

Beach ridges are landforms commonly developed on prograded coasts with beach
shorelines. A sequence of beach ridges, coupled with their subsurface deposits, can be …

Beaches that are geologically controlled by rock and coral formations are the rule, not the
exception. This paper reviews the current understanding of geologically controlled beaches …

Seasonal change in beach morphology is traditionally ascribed to a variation in the incident
wave energy level with calm conditions in summer resulting in wide beaches with …

Over 30 years of wave and beach survey data at Collaroy‐Narrabeen Beach in southeast
Australia are analyzed to investigate the extent to which shoreline variability within this …

Coastal changes on sandy shorelines are continuous and occur at diverse spatial and
temporal scales. Gaining knowledge on beach change processes increases our capability to …

Although embayed beach rotation has been viewed and modeled as an alongshore
sediment transport process acting on a uniform beach profile, recent research suggests a …

Within an EU-funded project, BESS (Pocket Beach Management and Remote Surveillance
System), the notion of a geographic information system is an indispensable tool for …

These four quotations encapsulate the theme of this book, as waves, encompassing an
energy spectrum that has an enormous range, wash up in a continuum against cliffs …