The dominant hydrodynamic forcing and resulting sediment transport mechanisms in the
swash zone are reviewed, combined with a discussion of future measurement and …

Hydrodynamic forcing with respect to sediment transport and morphologic change, paying
particular attention to relevant swash asymmetries, is reviewed. The hydrodynamics are …

The world's coastlines represent a myriad of dynamic and constantly changing
environments. Heavily settled and intensely used areas, they are of enormous importance to …

Contrary to traditional findings, the deepwater angle of wave approach strongly affects plan
view coastal evolution, giving rise to an antidiffusional “high wave angle” instability for …

The dominant processes in gravel beach dynamics are reviewed, highlighting some
common themes which unify the various components of the gravel beach system, the …

The nearshore region exhibits many striking morphological patterns with a variety of spatial
and temporal scales. The formation of these rhythmic features has been initially ascribed …

Most studies of nearshore hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and morphology focus on
bathymetric variability within a narrow band of spatial and temporal scales. Typically, these …

The coupling between topography, waves and currents in the surf zone may self-organize to
produce the formation of shore-transverse or shore-oblique sand bars on an otherwise …

A fully three-dimensional model is proposed for the generation of tidal sand waves and sand
banks from small bottom perturbations of a flat seabed subject to tidal currents. The model …

Beach cusps are a common feature of steep reflective and intermediate beaches. Although
many observations of beach cusp spacing exist, there are few observations quantifying the …